Gran Adventura de South America 2023 (Miami)

 

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Oh yeah - we added a stop in Miami to our Gran advetura!

Feb 26: This day started early. Very early! Uber picked us up at 1am. Flight to Panama scheduled for 3:50, actually loaded an hour prior to departure  and actually departed  the gate 15 minutes ahead of schedule.

We arrived early into Panama, our connection city. We had almost a four hour layover. The Panama airport is incredibly bright. Really bright. But there was only one restaurant where we could find a cup of coffee. Our flight to Miami left around 10 and delivered us to Miami around 1pm. we picked up ur rental car and found our hotel by 2:30. Marriott Courtyard Coconut Grove. We went to a short walk to wake up and discovered a place called Montys that served an awesome Bahama Breeze drink - it was so good we had two with some truffle fries. 

Miami, officially the city of miami, is a coastal metropolis and the county seat of miami-dade county in south florida. with a population of 442,241 as of the 2020 census, it is the second-most populous city in florida and 11th-most populous city in the southeast. the miami metropolitan area is the ninth-largest in the united states with a population of 6.138 million in 2020. the city has the third largest skyline in the u.s. with over 300 high-rises, 58 of which exceed 491 ft.

Why Miami you ask? When we were booking our trip home, the best connect was through Miami. So we said to ourselves, "we should just hang out in Miami for a few days". 

We went to an awesome Mexican restaurant in downtown Miami. La Veinte Cantina. It was beautifully situated on one of the waterways that makes Miami Miami. The skyline reflecting upon the water, with passing yachts, was amazing and magical. 

Feb 27: I went for a wonderful morning walk along the waterfront. This part of Miami reminds me of a warmer version of San Diego. 

We decided to take in south beach. After finding parking, not super easy, we found a great restaurant on ocean view road called Americano. We set outside on the sidewalk and enjoy our meal and people watched. After eating we ventured out to the beach. South Beach is a great place to people watch! We found a day lounge bed and kicked back watching people - mostly scantily dressed and tiny swim attire. It was fun sitting their an talking, the perfect spot.

Until a guy approached us and asked, we had paid to rent the bed. Paid? I asked. Apparently, these spots are rented out. $150 per day.  for as far as the eye could see there were lounge chairs, umbrellas and day beds. All apparently private and available for rent. No thanks! Spring Break crowds will be arriving to South Beach in the coming weeks. And We thought the beaches were crowded today. 

Miami/SoBe is an up and coming Spring Break location. When the sun goes down on Miami Beach, the neon lights go on in South Beach and the evening heats up.

This historic Art Deco District of South Miami Beach is well known for it's chic sidewalk cafes, trendy restaurants and non stop partying. A favorite destination of those escaping New York in winter, South Beach, has always been popular with models, movie stars, and musicians.

We put on our "we belong here" attitude and walked into the W for a look around. We checked into room rates and found out a king room rents for $1100 per night. Maybe we don't belong here😁

Miami took its name from the Miami River. The river was named for a Tequesta Indian word believed to mean “big water.” The Tequesta had Miami to themselves until the Spanish claimed it in the 1500s.

We had a nice dinner at Monty's near the hotel. one more day remains. The time has gone too fast. 

Feb 28: Last full day. It is hard a month has passed. When we were flying toward Chile at the start of our vacation, Maurina asked me to help her think of a hashtag for our trip. Grand Adventure came to mind, and translating that into Spanish, Gran Adventura, seemed appropriate. It has for sure been a grand adventure. Hard to believe it is almost over. 

Today, after breakfast at the courtyard, we went on a boat tour on Biscayne Bay and the waterways of Miami. The focus was on seeing the homes of the rich and famous who have built mansions here. The magnificent homes of famous actors, entertainers and sports stars line the shore. It was interesting and our bilingual tour guide "Pirate" made it fun. But for me, it was just relaxing being out on the water and enjoying the wonderful Miami weather. I think Maurina would agree. After the boat tour we went to Hard Rock for lunch on the deck overlooking the harbor. 

Then we headed toward our final hotel of our trip, La Quinta, in Fort Lauderdale. Fort Lauderdale is only 20 miles north of Miami. 

 Built in 1838 and first incorporated in 1911, Fort Lauderdale is named after a series of forts built by the United States during the Second Seminole War. The forts took their name from Major William Lauderdale (1782–1838), younger brother of Lieutenant Colonel James Lauderdale. Development of the city did not begin until 50 years after the forts were abandoned at the end of the conflict. 

Known as the “Venice of America", Fort Lauderdale has 165-miles of inland waterways across the city.

Fitting final photo on the last night

Fort Lauderdale is much more laid back compared to Miami Beach. We went to the beach area for dinner at an awesome place called "The Taco Joint". We were able to get an outdoor table which set right on the board walk. About 20 feet or so from the beach and the surf beyond. What a great place to people watch and the food was outstanding (and affordable compared to Miami beach). I enjoyed amazing lobster tacos. The 32oz Margs really het the spot. 

If I were to return to south Florida for a beach vacation, I would definitely choose to stay in the Lauderdale area vs Miami (or Coconut Grove where we stayed). Hotels are more affordable, and the beach is equally amazing. Food seems to be less expensive. At least "the Taco Joint" did not add in the 20% mandatory service fee that the Miami restaurants include. I found the service charge to be frustrating - especially when they would suggest a tip on top of the service charge. I never gave them a tip. 

March 1: Homeward bound. We flew out of Fort Lauderdale on an early flight. We had arranged first class tickets using our frequent flyer miles - making a great final leg of our Grand Adventure. We arrived back to Lopez around 6:30pm to an amazing greeting from Rocky and Apollo. We were tired and a few pounds heavier, but so thankful we had the opportunity to explore new cultures and see amazing natural wonders, all while enjoying warm weather for an entire month. 

I will be reflecting on the trip for some time. So, watch for future blogs as I ponder things experienced from our Gran Adventura de South America 2023. There was a lot to take in - from sitting in thermal hot springs in middle of the Andes Mountains, sipping wine in an Argentina Vinyard, being up close and drenched by the largest waterfall in the world at Iguazu Falls, exploring the amazing wonder of the Amazon (which included swimming with pink dolphins), and the fellow sojourners we met along the way. Of course, the highlight of the entire trip was being present to celebrate Jordan and Eliana on their wedding day. That was the impetus to the trip to begin with. We are thankful for each step and every experience. 

We are glad to be home. Tired, but incredibly thankful. 

Gran Adventura de South America 2023 (Brazil)

 Please excuse typos and errors

I start with a little wisdom from Rascal Flats. 

Life is a Highway

Life's like a road that you travel on
When there's one day here, and the next day gone
Sometimes you bend, sometimes you stand
Sometimes you turn your back to the wind

There's a world outside every darkened door
Where blues won't haunt you anymore
Where the brave are free and lovers soar
Come ride with US to the distant shore

We won't hesitate
To break down the garden gate
There's not much time left today, yeah 

Life is a highway
I wanna ride it all night long
If you're goin' my way
Well, I wanna drive it all night long

Feb 15: Welcome to Brazil. Today we traveled from Iguazu to Sao Paulo onto Manous. There were a few bumps in our travel day, but we arrived Manous around 10pm.

Our driver to the airport, Sebastian, had a flat tire on his way to pick us up. He arranged for a friend to drive us, which only delayed our departure from the airport by about 15 minutes. The border crossing was uneventful. We patiently navigated the endless lines at the airport, only to find our flight was delayed by an hour. We had planned on a short layover in Sao Paulo, we ran to our connecting gate. The departure door was still open, we quickly handed our boarding passes to the gate agent. Everything looked promising, until other passengers from our flight started running up to the gate. Without a word, she walked through the doors and closed them in our faces. The plane was still there but we were denied entry. We were rebooked on the next flight to Manous – 6 hours later.

A young women from Germany, who spoke english, took on the great injustice for our group of eight. She was a real spitfire. She demanded some form of “compensation”. She was relentless. In the end she got us a food voucher, but it became a spectator sport watching thjs future lawyer hammer on the poor supervisor.

We arrived Manous and Jordan and Eliana met us at the airport. It was great meeting Eliana in person. We settled into the condo and we are excited for our time in Manous.

Feb 16: First full day in Manaus. 

Manaus is the capital and largest city of the Brazilian state of Amazonas. It is the seventh-largest city in Brazil, with an estimated 2020 population of 2,219,580 distributed over a land area of about 11,401 km². Located at the east center of the state, the city is the center of the Manaus metropolitan area and the largest metropolitan area in the North Region of Brazil by urban landmass. It is situated near the confluence of the Negro and Solimões rivers. It is the only city in the Amazon Rainforest with a population over 1 million people.

We settled into our condo. It is only two blocks from Eliana's apartment. A thunderstorm rolled through this morning bringing with it torrential rain. We lost power for much of the morning. We walked to a nearby supermarket and bought some food for the condo. In the afternoon we Walked through a nearby park with Jordan and Nicolas. 

Feb 17:  Today was taken up with our search for wedding clothes. we decided renting was better than buying.  Maurina found a beautiful mother of the groom dress at a shop a block from our condo.  I rented a suit, shirt and tie. Then the quest began for shoes. We learned the importance of Uber in towns like Manaus. Traffic is ridiculous and driving is each man to himself. 

I went for a morning walk. I love exploring the neighborhood around the condo. Each day I hope to push out a little further and in different directions. It is fun getting to know the little community within a bigger city. There are some beautiful oasis homes behind closed gates. Security seems to be a priority with multi layer security systems and razor wired walls. Sidewalks are narrow and not meant for casual walking. Traffic does not yield to pedestrians. 

But in every new culture, you see things that catch your eye. This Jeep truck selling a fruit I had never heard of, Pupunha, set alongside a congested intersection. 

Pupunha is a species of palm native to the tropi

cal forests of Central and South America. It is a long-lived perennial plant that is productive for 50 to 75 years on average. Its population has an important genetic diversity, leading to numerous fruits, colors, and qualities. The fruits are edible and nutritious but need to be cooked for 30 minutes to five hours. They also benefit many animals in the wild. 

Jordan and i found a street side vender and sat in the humidity and enjoyed a cold coke. Eliana was not feeling well this evening, so for dinner we stayed in the condo and played games and ordered in Pizza. 

Feb 18: Today was a mall day. Clothes shopping and shoe shopping. The result of packing light for our one month adventure. 

Feb 19: we were up early today to drive to the waterfront and join a tour of the Amazon.. We departed port around 9am. There is an abundance to write about from our adventure on this single day. Jordan, Eliana, Nicolas and Maurina and I enjoyed a memory packed day exploring  some unforgettable sights and natural wonders. 

The busy port of Manous actually sits on the Black River or Rio Negro. The head waters of this slow moving river starts in Columbia, winds through Venezuela, and becomes the largest tributary to the Amazon River. The floating piers are designed to rise and fall with the changes of the river. I read that it may rise up to 30 feet in the rain season of June and July. The river takes on a black color due to the organic material it collects as it passes through the jungles. 

The tour took us across the river to a small broken down dock where we could get off the boat, at a cost of 10 Reales (about $2). Then for another 10 Reales we could jump into the dark waters of the Rio Negro and swim with Pink Dolphins. We were quite literally all in. Maurina was beside herself with joy after this experience of a life time. I think it was a bucket list experience she did not realize existed until this day. As we treaded water, the dolphins would swim under us, sometime bumping into us.

The Amazon river dolphin is the largest species of river dolphin, with adult males reaching 185 kilograms (408 lb) in weight, and 2.5 metres (8.2 ft) in length. Adults acquire a pink color, more prominent in males, giving it its nickname "pink river dolphin"

After reboarding the boat we cruised along to one of the weirdest acts of nature I have ever seen. It is a place where the black waters of Rio Negro flows into the cream colored Rio Solimoes to form the  Amazon river. The warmer slow moving Rio Negro meets the colder faster moving water from Solimoes. The waters from Rio Solimoes originate high in the Andes Mountains. For a length of about 4 miles they run side by side before blending together. This is called appropriately "The Meeting of the Waters". Apparently this unusual phenomenon can be seen from space. 

Next we went into some back water indigenous villages that line the Solimoes River. The wooden homes are built up on stilts to accommodate the changes in water levels. Many actually are floating on large logs and anchored to the shore. It is obvious these villages have adapted their economy to cater to the many tourist that arrive via tours like ours. Our first stop offered us a chance to fish for the giant Pirarucu fish. Like a trout pond back home, these giant fish are held in pens designed to let tourist fish (for $10 Reales) using wooden poles with a heavy cord attached to the end. 

The piraruca, or arapanima, is an air-breathing fish that plies the rainforest rivers of the Amazon. One of the worlds largest freshwater fish species and can grow up to 15 feet long and weigh up to 440 pounds. The fish in the pens were about half that size. They are an air breathing fish and you can hear their gulp of air when they surface. 

On the next stop the tribe members, dressed in native indigenous

"costumes" put on a performance for us. It was interesting and certainly staged for well. After the performance, they brought out a variety of animals, reptiles and birds which inhabit the jungle around their village. For 10 Reales you could pose with an animal and have your photo taken.

We contributed our share to the local economy with the following photos. 

After our visit to the Amazon version of a petting zoo, the boat pulled into another floating dock where we enjoyed a fantastic buffet lunch. One of the items I chose was fried Parauca. A great tasting white fish. 

After lunch we went on a walk through the jungle on an elevated platform. We saw an alligator and a sloth. The platformed walkway was a bit rickety and sketchy.  

After a little souvenir shopping we headed back to port. A huge thunderstorm slammed into us as we headed back and we spent much of the trip below deck out of the hard rain. 

Prior to the mid-17th century, millions of índios (Portuguese for Indians) lived across the Amazon Rainforest in 2,000 nations. Three tribes resided near here: Tamurãs, Barés and Manaós, the namesake for the city of Manaus. The majority of indigenous Brazilians died from European diseases or harsh treatment as slaves on rubber plantations. Only 200 tribes remain today. Some are together on their ancestral land or

government-established reservations.

I read an interesting piece on the commercialization of the indigenous culture. Good thing or bad thing? Why should the village people not benefit from the tourist industry that seems to thrive in Manous? They are giving the tourist what they want. I am not sure how the arrangement works with the tour operators, but I wonder if they give the tribe a cut of each ticket they sell. of course they also bring tourist to the village to buy souvenirs and pose for oictures. 

Eliana cooked us some amazing lasagna for dinner and we hung out and shared a few laughs. 

Feb 20:we stayed close.to the condo all day. The rain was falling most of the day. I am amazed at how hard it rains here. Maurina and I enjoyed the opportunity to go over to Eliana's apartment and help prepare gifts for wedding guests. It felt good to be useful. We had lunch with them and even fit in a game of janga. Last night Eliana and Jordan came over for pizza and  we watched a movie while Maurina had her BSF call. 

Most of all we have had a chance to get to know Eliana better. I am afraid we tire Jordan out with all the translation. I wish we could speak the same language. Other wedding guests will be arriving soon and so getting time with just her and Nicolas might become more scarce. 

The Teatro holds 701 seats

Feb 21: We visited the Teatro Amazonas or Opera House today. it is the cities most famous landmark. The Space Needle of Manous. It is a magnificent structure! Our timing was perfect as we walked up and were able to slide into an English speaking tour. 

 The whole incongruous, magnificent creation, designed in a pastiche of Italian Renaissance style by a Lisbon architectural firm, cost over R$6 million. After twelve years of building, with virtually all the materials – apart from the regional wood – brought from Europe, the Opera House was finally completed in 1896. Its main feature, the fantastic cupola, was created from 36,000 tiles imported from Alsace in France. The theatre’s main curtain, painted in Paris by Brazilian artist Crispin I have received do Amaral, represents the meeting of the waters and the local water-goddess Iara. The four painted pillars on the ceiling depict the Eiffel Tower in Paris, giving visitors the impression, as they look upwards, that they are actually underneath the tower itself. The chandeliers are of Italian crystal and French bronze, and the theatre’s seven hundred seats, its main columns and the balconies are all made of English cast iron. If you include the dome, into which the original curtain is pulled up in its entirety, the stage is 75m high. Looking over the upstairs balcony down onto the road in front of the Opera House, you can see the black driveway made from a special blend of rubber, clay and sand, originally to dampen the noise of horses and carriages as they arrived. Regular performances continue to be held at the theatre.

We enjoyed the tour and paused afterwards to have a cup of coffee in the alcove off the main entrance. This was a center piece for the wealthy rubbed barons in the late 1800's. The rubber industry  was the primary economy and brought Europeans here to reap wealth from the Amazon and the cheap indigenous labor. Eventually the rubber tree was introduced to a similar climate in Malaysia and the industry here declined until WWII when the Americans needed rubber during the war and Malaysia was not an option. we were told during the tour that the American military occupied the Opera House during the war as a center for rubber extraction. 

From the opera house we walked to Palacio Rio Negro, a mansion that now serves as the governor residence. But it was closed for the holiday. We ended up at a small cafe on the water front for a beer and a plate of French fries. 

Maurina and I hung out at the condo for the rest if the afternoon and evening. 

The Amazon rubber boom was an important part of the economic and social history of Brazil and Amazonian regions of neighboring countries, being related to the extraction and commercialization of rubber. Centered in the Amazon Basin, the boom resulted in a large expansion of European colonization in the area, attracting immigrant workers, generating wealth, causing cultural and social transformations, and wreaking havoc upon indigenous societies. It encouraged the growth of cities such as Manaus and Belém, capitals within the respective Brazilian states of Amazonas and Pará, among many other cities throughout the region like Itacoatiara, Rio Branco, Eirunepé, Marabá, Cruzeiro do Sul and Altamira; as well as the expansion of Iquitos in Peru, Cobija in Bolivia and Leticia in Colombia. The rubber boom occurred largely between 1879 and 1912. There was heightened rubber production and associated activities again from 1942 to 1945 during the Second World War.

Feb 22: Today is Ash Wednesday and the beginning of Lent. We went with Jordan to Lent service at Igreja Largo Sao Sebastian. This beautiful historic church was built in 1888. Arriving a little late for the start of the service, we crowded through a mass of people at the entrance and inches our way to a stairway to a small and equally crowded balcony. It was a nice service, I gusss, as it was done in Portuguese and all the Catholic tradition. The vocal music, which echoed through the stone structure was very cool. The priest found us up in the balcony and allied an ash cross to the top of our heads. 

The beautiful little Igreja Largo São Sebastião, built in 1888, and, like many other churches in Brazil, with only one tower due to the nineteenth-century tax levied on those with two towers

.I continue to reflect on the "meeting of the waters". So much of the old architecture in operate the imagery of this natural phenomenon. We saw it in the Teatro. In the central plaza. On sidewalks throughout the city. Even on the floor of the balcony of the church. I think there must be a meaning, that runs much deeper then the two rivers which run side by side. At least a meaning the city founders recognised. 

I have found nothing to support my hunch, but I think it represents the joining of two vastly different cultures here in Manaus. The indigenous culture and the European culture that met here in the amazon. They existed side by side in those early years before blending together over time. Only a hunch now. 

In front of the Teatro, the wavy black-and-white mosaic designs of the Praça São Sebastião represent the meeting of the waters, and are home to the Monument to the Opening of the Ports, a marble-and-granite creation with four ships that represent four continents – America, Europe, Africa and Asia/Australasia – and children who symbolize the people of those continents.

We went to dinner with Eliana, Nicolas, and her mom Neide. It was a nice evening. Two days until the wedding. 

Feb 23: Day before the wedding. Today may be the warmest (most humid) day yet while we've been in Manaus. Today was a day of preparation. Maurina and Eliana's mom Neide went on an outing to get their nails done. Jordan and I went out for lunch and picked up our rental suits. The rehearsal was held in the evening. We had a chance to meet much of her family and friends. The evening was full of laughter and joy. We tried hard to understand the language and they all went out of their way to include us. 

Eliana family seems very nice and I could sense their love for one another. They all had driven from Boa Vista, a six hour drive, to be here in Manous. Her big brother Arturo, seems to be super nice and a protector. He will walk her down the aisle. 

Like most weddings, they are dealing with an unexpected hitch. The wedding rings are not ready. After several delays and unanswered phone calls it became apparent through the day that the rings would not be ready. The jeweler offered substitute rings and they were delivered around 11pm. 

The meeting of the waters became another metaphor as I reflect upon the wedding rehearsal and the marriage. Two cultures merging into one. Mixing together to create a beautiful union. Reinforcing what the Bible says "and  two shall become one".

Feb 24: Jordan and Elianas wedding day. Our entire South American Adventure was planned around this day – and it has finally arrived. The wedding would start at 4pm. Jordan needed to get to their hotel in Praia Ponta Negra by 1. Camera man would meet him there for some “getting ready” photos. Maurina and I would tag along. We never were quite sure how our transportation was going to work. As Maurina said “we would stick with the groom, they won’t start the ceremony without him”.

The river beach at Praia Ponta Negra, about 13km northwest of Manaus near the Hotel Tropical, is a very popular local excursion, and on weekends is packed with locals. Once the home of the Manaós, today the beach is an enjoyable spot for a swim, with plenty of bars and restaurants serving freshly cooked river fish.

The brother in law of some relative of Elianas picked the three of us up and drove us to

the very  remote wedding venue named Chacara. We joked that it was located at the actual end of the earth. It was a beautiful venue on a river that fed Rio Negro. I was a little worried that we did not arrive until 3:30. Maybe cutting things a little too close.

The Wedding and live stream for family back home was set to begin at four. It quickly became very apparent that the ceremony would not start at four. At 4:30 other members of the wedding party started to arrive. Around 5:00 the musicians made their appearance and started to warm up. Around 5:30 the pastor arrived. Meanwhile, back home,  family was tuning in to Instagram for the live stream. Around 5:30 Maurina said that Eliana was putting her dress on. The wedding started at 6:00. But the ceremony was well worth the wait. 

Eliana was beautiful. Her long walk down the aisle with her brother was so perfect. Watching g the look on Jordan's face as he watched her every step, every breath was a parents dream for their child. He is obviously madly in love with her and captured by the thoughts of a life with her. 

It was an amazing ceremony. Small and intimate. Most of those who attended were in the wedding party. There was a ten seat table set up at the reception for the family of the groom. Maurina and I set there alone until some of Elianas family, her sister and brother, broke protocol and joined us. They were so sweet and welcoming.

I really like her family. I wish I could communicate with them. I really think they are much like our family – a Brazilian version. They really enjoy each other and their love for one another is obvious. The reception with and open bar and bottomless glass of Champaign lasted until 11. The dance floor was well used. Jordan and Eliana was well celebrated and photographed.

Feb 25: The day after. Maurina and I caught an uber to the newlyweds hotel for a planned breakfast before they left on their honeymoon. It turned out only being Jordan the two of us. Eliana was sick through the night and her family did not get the memo. We enjoyed a final meal with Jordan before we left him in Manaus. After a walk along the waterfront, we returned the  rented suits and dress. The two of us went to lunch and enjoyed some alone time along with a couple of Mojitos. We hung around the apartment and tried to get some rest. 

This is our last day in Brazil. Tomorrow it is on to Miami by way of Panama. We leave a piece of us in Manaus. We leave uncertain when will see Jordan again. One of Elianas family members teasingly said "Jordan is now Brazilian. He speaks Portuguese. His children, if he has any will speak Portuguese. we must learn Portuguese". I, we, are tired and a.little sad for us. But very happy for Jordan and our new daughter-in-law Eliana and our step grandson,Nicolas. 

Gran Adventura de South America 2023 (Mendoza y Iguazu)

 Again  I must apologize for misspelled words and poor grammar. Writing on the tablet has been a challenge. 

Feb 8: we have arrived Mendoza Argentina. We are only 110 miles east of Santiago. But the massive Andes separates the two cities. We took the  one hour flight from Santiago to Mendoza. the climate here is dryer and warmer, and far fewer people. It feels a bit like Eastern Washington. 

We are staying about 10 miles south of the city of Mendoza in a town called Lujan de Cuyo. We love our B&B named appropriately Hotel Lujan de Cuyo. It is owned by a nice man named Nacho.  We rented a car, a little red Fiat with a stick shift (45 years ago we owned a little red Fiat with a stick). Having the rental car will allow us to explore much easier. 

The first major challenge was (is) navigating the monetary system here. There seems to be at least three exchange rates. The blue exchange, a black exchange and a credit card exchange. What we learned quickly is you "need a guy" to exchange your US dollars into Argentinean pesos. Our guy, Nacho, drove into town with $500 of our money and returned with $185,500 pesos (an exchange rate of 371). When we paid for our first lunch using US dollars, we only got 242 pesos to the dollar. When asking about using a Credit Card, we constantly hear the phrase "never use your CC". So, with Nachos help we now have a literal stack of 1000 note Pesos. He delivered it back to us in a lunch sized paper sack. 

We were recommended a winery that serves a nice lunch. It was an amazing place called Ojo de Aqua. We received a four-course meal - each wonderfully done. They kept our wine glass appropriately full of a sampling of their wines. We thought the price was $17 per person. We kept saying to each other - with each course, " it must cost more than $17". My main course was a wonderfully prepared salmon steak. Then we took our key lime dessert up to some lounge chairs by the lake with another glass of wine. When the bill arrived, we learned that the price was $17,000 pesos - each. With bad conversion knowledge, we ended up paying $140 for lunch. But to be honest it was incredible and a great lesson on what not to do with the conversion. Oh well, the memory was well worth the price.

Ojo de Aqua- great food, great wine.

After lunch we went in search of a legendary wine maker who lives in Lujan. Armed with only an address, we pulled up to a nondescript gate and waited. The security guy told us "Carmelo no es aqui". We finally were able to talk our way through the gate and had a chance to meet Carmelo Patti's daughter. We tasted his wines and wished we had a few pesos with us to buy a bottle. 

For dinner we were invited to an Argentinean style steak barbecue dinner. Served family style at 9pm in the garden. We had a great time visiting with other guest and enjoying great food. They paid special attention to Maurina and served her some awesome nonmeat food options. We talked primarily to a couple from Sao Paulo, Brazil. The dinner did not wrap up until after midnight. The food kept coming and the wine glass never set empty. But what a great start to our time in Mendoza! 

Mendoza: Jesuit missionaries crossed the Andes from Chile to plant the first grape vines in 1556. Today more than 180,975 hectares (447,200 acres) of vineyards bask in the sun from the hills of San Juan down to the suburbs of Mendoza City and farther south through the Valle de Uco to San Rafael. The grapes are protected from the humid winds of the Pacific by the Andes, and grow at altitudes between 609 and 2,000 meters (2,000 to 6,500 feet), where they ripen slowly during long, hot summer days, while cool nights maintain acidity for long-lasting taste. Indeed, many vineyards could be classified as organic, as chemicals are seldom used or needed, and vintages are consistent.

Feb 9: Lunch and wine tasting in the Uco valley. We left the hotel around noon and drove SW to the Uco Valley.  We underestimated the distance, and it took a little over an hour to get to the first winery. But the drive was beautiful, and the mountains grew larger as we approached. The first stop was at Domaine Bouquet. Recommended by our host at the B&B, the wines were very impressive. Then we went a short distance to a winery called El Azul. Lunch was impressive and the wine was also outstanding. Live music, a sax player, entertained us as we dined.

Lucas shares wine notes with us at Bouquet

Among Uco's specific merits is its high elevation at the foot of the Andes mountains. The valley's La Consulta and Tunuyan sub-regions sit at altitudes of 850 meters (2000 ft) and 1100m (3600 ft) respectively. These are slightly higher above sea level than Maipu and Luján de Cuyo in the north.

After a siesta we went to dinner at a small place in a nearby community. We have enjoyed meeting other guests at the hotel. Flavio and Fran Moreni are our new friends from Sao Paulo.

Feb 10: Mendoza (Lujan de Cuyo) is a beautiful place. The weather is perfect - waking up to fresh air and sun, 70 degrees, and the sound of songbirds preparing for their day. High temps in the mid to upper 90s. The weather reminds me so much of summers in Yakima. Afternoon thunderstorms build in the Andes mountains to the west, sending the rumble of thunder into the valley below. Driving here has been surprisingly easy. The lack of lane lines, stop signs, and unknown speed limits took some getting used to. But we somehow made it work.

Yesterday Maurina and I dreamed, about what it would look like to live here a couple of months during the PNW winter. The cost of meals is very reasonable. Last night we had a wonderful three course dinner (at 9pm ending at midnight), which included a bottomless glass of wine, for less than $30 for the two of us. Of course, if we lived here, we would need to limit our food and wine consumption. 

The family style meals are fun. It is always awkward eating with people you don't know or may not even speak the same language with. But good food and good wine tends to open the door for interesting conversations. Last night we met a family from Wisconsin. The kids, 12 and 9, are home schooled and they do that from the road. Traveling up to 5 months a year in different countries. The dad works online several days per week to pay for their educational adventures. Two family physicians from Brazil were super interesting to talk with. Tonight is a pizza party.

Yesterday we toured an olive oil production business. Our tour included a group of 5 guys from Israel. The tour ended with a tasting experience of many types of olive oils. The highlight was when the owner, who was from Israel, joined us and the Israelis broke out in song and clapping. It was fun!

plaza Indepencia

We went to a winery called Roberto BONFANTI. We tasted their great wines and we enjoyed a small lunch. Interestingly the wineries here in Mendoza all serve wonderful meals. Some of the best chefs in the country are hired by these wineries. It is a significant contrast to wineries in California or Washington. 

Before dinner we drove to downtown Mendoza City to look around near Plaza Indepencia. It was a great place for people watching. 

Mendoza Province is Argentina's most important wine region, accounting for nearly two-thirds of the country's entire wine production. Located in the eastern foothills of the Andes, in the shadow of Aconcagua, vineyards are planted at some of the highest altitudes in the world, with the average site located 600–1,100 metres (2,000–3,600 ft) above sea level. The principal wine producing areas fall into two main departments-Maipú and Luján, which includes Argentina's first delineated appellation established in 1993 in Luján de Cuyo. The pink-skinned grapes of Criolla Grande and Cereza account for more than a quarter of all plantings but Malbec is the region's most important planting, followed closely by Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo and Chardonnay. Mendoza is considered the heart of the winemaking industry in Argentina with the vast majority of large wineries located in the provincial capital of Mendoza.^[

Feb 11: We have a bit of a Mendoza routine. Lazy morning - a wine tasting (which takes a couple of hours, nothing is rushed in Mendoza), 2-3 hour lunch -siesta and relax by pool, then a 2–3-hour dinner. The vibe is so relaxed and relational. No one is trying to rush you or turn the table for the next guest. Which means reservations are needed. If you sit down for lunch at 1pm you will be there until 3 or 4. Here the fast pace culture of home is quickly forgotten.

Today we tasted some great wine at Don Martino. Their high-end single vineyard Malbecs were incredible. They also had a killer Cab Franc. Then lunch at Lagrade. Sitting in a vineyard, surrounded by huge shade trees we enjoyed ourselves. Temp was 98 and the afternoon nap and pool time felt great. 

We are getting closer to figuring out the whole money thing here in Argentina. Cash is clearly king. US dollars are like gold. When we booked our hotel, Linen de Cuyo B&B, I thought I was going to pay $180 per night. That's what the website said. Since we were able to pay in cash, we paid $90 per night. We are not complaining, but next time we will carry more cash on the plane. We

are told that if you charge it on a CC, the credit card company will make it right.... sometimes. it just depends. 

Pizza was on the menu for our last night. Claudia, our cook was a wonderful host. 

The average temperature in Lujan de Cuyo in February for a typical day ranges from a high of 84°F (29°C) to a low of 58°F (14°C). Some would describe it as mildly cool with a gentle breeze. 

Feb 12: Today is a travel day. We are flying on Aeroplanes Argentina Airlines from Mendoza to Buenas Aires. Then after a couple of hour lay other and lunch at Hard Rock Cafe, we will fly on to Iguazu falls. We land on the Argentina side and hope to find a shuttle to our hotel. 

It is interesting that when flying out of Mendoza, you are allowed to carry on six bottles of wine per person. I felt like a light weight with only two bottles in my back pack. It is a little ridicules that they would not allow a bottled water to go through the lack security, but you can fill your packs with wine. Some people we met were carrying over 24 bottles. 

I would love to return to Mendoza. I also have a hankering to see the capital of Uruguay, Montevideo. It sounds like it would be a fun visit. This trip we also leave Buenas Aires unexplored. We have a lot to look forward to next visit, we are less than half way through our trip. 

Feb 13: we awake in Iguazu falls our hotel is literally surrounded by jungle on all sides. Our room looks out into the jungle. What a change from a day ago. Iguana is 1,984 km (1233 miles)  NE of Mendoza. About the distance of Seattle to Denver. The Selvaje Lodge is beautiful. Arriving after dark, we took a wood planked path into the jungle to our room. Sadly , we could not find the Superbowl on tv. 

Iguazu consists of some 275 separate waterfalls—in the rainy season there are as many as 350—that plunge more than 200 feet onto the rocks below. They cascade in a deafening roar at a bend in the Iguazú River (Río Iguazú in Spanish, Rio Iguaçu in Portuguese) where the borders of Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay meet. Dense, lush jungle surrounds the falls: here the tropical sun and the omnipresent moisture produce a towering pine tree in two decades instead of the seven it takes in, say, Scandinavia.

The falls lived up to all the hype. Despite the high humidity and hot sun, the walk to and around the falls was incredible. We arrived around 10 and Finished up around 2:30. Maurina recorded 6.5 miles of walking and closed her exercise ring four times. Only downside was the mass of peop!e who descends on this Disneyland of nature. With a Park entry cost of 5,500 Argentinean pesos or $15, it was a screaming deal. It is reported to be one of the seven greatest natural wonders of the world. 

Fun fact I read - when the Iguazu river flows at its heaviest, 3.4 million gallons of water cascades over the falls EVERY SECOND. 

The first European to see the Iguazu falls was Cabeza de Vaca in 1542.  He was on an expedition through the region populated by the Caiagangue and Tupi-Gurani Indians.  In search for a river route to Paraguay, the falls presented themselves as a startling obstacle. 

Feb 14: Happy Valentines Day. Sebastian has been our private driver. He drove us across the boarder to the Brazil side if the falls. Sidenote, why do we spell Brazil with a Z while the actual country is spelled Brasil with a S? Why don't we spell it as they would? Oh well. 

We had heard that the Brazil side of the falls were much more dramatic. So were agreed to make the trek and check it out. It was true, the Brazil side was way more impressive . The views were stunning and one of the platforms actually took us out over the water - literally in the falls. We were soaked by the spray and mist. 

After the walk through the series of Incredible vistas we caught a bus to go to the boat tours. After getting a locker and putting on our rain gear, the tram took us down to the dock. The boat is like a large zodiac that seats 30 people. We took off upriver and quickly were jetting up some crazy big rapids. Water was spraying in each time the boat crashed through a wave. But the fun was just beginning!!! The captain fought his way through the rapids to the base of the falls - fighting and twisting his way through the strong current. At times the zodiac came close to taking on water over the side. It was, in my opinion, a risky endeavor. Then the captain hammered the throttle straight into the falls. The water pounded on us so hard it hurt. Keeping my eyes open was impossible. Cold cascading water seemed to be filling the boat. But then he pulled out and it was obvious the captain was giving us our money's worth. Into the falls he drove - several more times. Everyone was screaming and cheering at the same time. I am sure we were never in any real risk. The boat ride into the falls was better than any ride in Disneyland. We returned to the dock drenched and on an adrenaline high. 

Sebastian was waiting for us and took us back our hotel. We enjoyed a nice Valentines Day dinner at Selvaje hotel. While we ate a thunderstorm rolled through with a torrential rain. I don't think I have ever seen rain that hard. 

Earlier in the day I reflected on all that water soaring over the falls. 3.4 million gallons every second. Hour after hour. Day after day. Year after year. Never ceasing. Where does it all come from? After watching that rain bounce off the deck for several hours - it became more clear. 

Some quick math - the average American family uses 300 gallons of water per day. In one year 109,000 gallons. Enough water flows over the falls in one second to supply 31 families with water for an entire year.

We Leave behind Argentina, along with the many great memories of our adventure through this beautiful country. I want to return and explore more - experience more. Both Chile and Argentina exceeded my expectations. First, the bustle of city life in Santiago and the amazing excursions we had - then the perfect weather of more rural Mendoza (Lujan de Cuyo) and the delicious wine it offered. - finally, the jaw dropping majesty of God's creation in Iguazu.